I learned how to surf when I was 18 yrs old. I look back on that time and thank god for those experiences I really could of gone in a bad direction after becoming homeless my best friend at the time convinced his parents to let me move in with their family. He later became my boyfriend and best friend. We traveled to all the great surf spots up and down the east coast of florida for the next 10 years. Those adventures introduced me to the spiritual change that surfing can have on a person. I used surfing as a coping method to escape my reality of not having any family to call me home. I made everlasting connections I was introduced to a whole lifestyle, and it was a good thing it kept me from going to the dark places most people lean towards in the face of betrayal and hurt. Even though the relationship ended after 10 years the lessons of that time still stay with me till this day and find myself longing for the freedom that I felt chasing waves.
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